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Sexiness. But without excesses. With a sophisticated taste rétro. I'is the tendency for the man who for the woman. And the pyjama it returns trendy.

by Antonia Matarrese

Do you remembered the garter, key element of striptease of the Mara prostitute in the Vittorio De Sica's movie “Ieri, oggi e domani”? Forget it. The garterbelt of the new millenium, it will be thin as one string, similar to one garland of little flowers with multicolor peak, to approach with irony to the more essential underwear. To bring it's the Malizia brand by La Perla in occasion of Intimare 2001 (3-5 February), the Bologna's hall that, two times in the year, show all that it's fashion and tendency in the underwear.

A field that grinder millions, with peaks of export towards France, Germany, Russia, Spain and the United States. In footbridge indeed, on the prepared dynamic theater box from Mary Marabini, infinity of collections man-woman are protagonists. Each with its detail and its color guides. " We want apply to a young target, that it follows the opinions of the fashion. But without to exaggerate ", it explains Anna Masotti, creative spirit of the group La Perla. She continues: " the minimalism isn't disappearance. It is even enriched from some contaminations found here and there in last of the 50 history years of the underwear. An example for all: the Lycra match, of inspiration decidedly rétro, that it remembers the clothing of the "neorealiste"(Italy latest 50 early 60) stars. High bra very structured and "short" (panty) high still, propose again in version high-tech with fabric stretch antibacterials. More transgressive, the Marvel collection that, for the next winter, is inspired to the butterflies: nearly a tattoo on the skin, embroidered on the tulle red, black or violet with some silver. For the mad nights, the same reason prevails in iridescent version with the lurex-red and lurex-violet approach. A flashing exalted from sages drapes on the breast. And the embroidered little butterfly could not lack that, thanks to a anallergica adhesive film, are applied directly on the breast ".

The topic of the butterfly, this time in giant version, is found again on the transparent nightgowns. A garment who, for the truth, has known better moments and now is relegated between those unavoidable ones of the equipment of a bride. According to a recent survey commissioned from the Brw group, leader in the production of spot television, the new male dream is in fact the woman in pyjama. To the question: " Which garment prefers to see wear to its partner in the more intimate moments ", the 33 for hundreds of the interviewed, in age comprised between the 20 and 45 years, have answered just the pyjama. Outclassing to guêpière and baby doll. Indumenti that will be looked at less and less in the spot advertising. Like confirmation Federico Fasolino, general executive manager of Brw: " the publicity has a social role and drive the mode. Today, riding a wave that she arrives from the foreign country, the woman of the spot is less sexy, more real and possible. The so-called " girl of the next door ", even fascinating like Camila Raznovich testimonial of Nescafé or Gaia Bermani Amaral di Tim, both in pyjama oversize, gives a sure sense of security ".

SEXY ARCURI.If to the gentleman men it appeals the woman in pyjama of silk, the garment that guides the top ten of the feminine tastes is the slip. Also Manuela Arcuri, new woman-image of the brand of lingerie Cotton Club love the slip: " I'm contented that is returned fashionable. He is sure the garment more sexy.It caress the body without constrictions and, because not, in the precious versions of satin or pure silk, can replace the dress from evening ".

A launch fashion this year from the roman designer Marisa Padovan, than moves between Montecarlo and Los Angeles in order " to undress " with elegance rich and famous women: " Slips from the lines clean and slides we sell to hundred ", confirmation: " the colors more demands? The melon, the green emerald and the silk effect jeans. The last one in order of time to bought has been the actress Andie MacDowell. The women Americans wear them in place of the evening dress, with stoles of the same fabric or, even, together to the classic bodice in denim light. A tendency that is taking foot also from us ". The border between intimate and external apparel become marked less and less. And it is demonstrate also with collections like that Argentovivo project, where the straps in colorful reptile of the bra appear from the dress.

Particular to discover that they come exalted also from some minimalism designers like Cristina Tardito, heir of the Tamigi brand, than in the new collection "Kristina" has inserted Top pink and celestial illuminated from small lucky pins, and has joined the triangles cups of the bras with gold rings. To mean that luxury and discretion can go of equal step. The slips of Blumarine, seem little dress, printed to small flowers and trimmed of ruches, while the straps risers in Swarovski crystals are the wire conductor of the creations of Roberto Cavalli.