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SUMMARYIn this chapter, we discussed the basic principles and properties of ocean waves, associated terms, and wave spectrum.Next we considered forecasting of sea waves, generation and growth, and the characteristics of fully and nonfully developed seas. Wind field and fetch areas were also covered followed by an objective method of forecasting sea waves.We also covered the generation, dispersion and angular spreading of swell waves, as well as an objective method for forecasting swell waves. The generation of surf and associated characteristics, the three breaker types, definition of terms, and an objective technique for forecasting surf were also considered, followed by an explanation of the modified surf index. Finally, we looked at forecasting surface currents, wind driven currents, coastal and tidal currents.
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Questa pagina è stata realizzata da
Vittorio Villasmunta
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