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FORECASTING SURFACE CURRENTS

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

Distinguish between tidal and nontidal currents. 

Define the terms associated with currents.

Classify currents as wind driven, coastal, or tidal. 

Identify publications available to obtain tidal and current information.

 

Although the forecasting of surface currents has been performed by aerographers for a number of years, the prominence of such forecasting became more evident when a number of incidents involving large sea-going oil tankers occurred.

Collisions and grounding involving tankers caused great amounts of pollutants, mainly oil, to be spilled on the water surface. The movement, both direction and speed, of such contaminants is directly controlled by the surface currents in the affected area. More concerned emphasis has now been placed on the ability of forecasters to predict the movement of such contaminated areas. In the past, NAVMETOC units have provided forecasts to assist in the location of personnel or boats adrift in the open sea as well as forecasts used in estimating ice flow.

With the growing concern about pollution and contamination of ocean waters, it is anticipated that more requests for current and drift forecasts will be directed to NAVMETOC units.

In this section, we will discuss the general characteristics of currents, how they form, and the different types of currents.

There are presently no hard and fast rules or techniques that are universally followed. Most units involved in surface current forecasts have their own innovations and methods.

Figure 6-10.-Sample surf worksheet.
Figure 6-11.-Example of final forecast form.
CURRENTS

Aerographer’s Mates have a knowledge of the major ocean currents and the meteorological results of the interaction of sea and air. Oceanic circulation (currents) plays a major role in the production and distribution of weather phenomena.

Principal surface current information such as direction, speed, and temperature distribution is relatively well known.

Tidal and Nontidal currents

Currents in the sea are generally produced by wind, tide, differences in density between water masses, sea level differences, or runoff from the land. They maybe roughly classed as tidal or nontidal currents. Tidal currents are usually significant in shallow water only, where they often become the strong or dominant flow. Nontidal currents include the permanent currents in the general circulatory systems of the oceans; geopotential currents, those associated with density difference in water masses; and temporary currents, such as wind-driven currents that are developed from meteorological conditions. The system of currents in the oceans of the world keeps the water continually circulating. The positions shift only slightly with the seasons except in the Southeast Asia area where monsoonal effects actually reverse the direction of flow from summer to winter. Currents appear on most charts as continuous streams defined by clear boundaries and with gradually changing directions. These presentations usually are smoothed patterns that were derived from averages of many observations.

Drift

The speed of a current is known as its drift. Drift is normally measured in knots. The term velocity is often interchanged with the term speed in dealing with currents although there is a difference in actual meaning. Set, the direction that the current acts or proceeds, is measured according to compass points or degrees. Observations of currents are made directly by mechanical devices that record speed and direction, or indirectly by water density computations, drift bottles, or visually using slicks and watercolor differences. Ocean currents are usually strongest near the surface and sometimes attain considerable speed, such as 5 knots or more reached by the Florida Current, In the middle latitudes, however, the strongest surface currents rarely reach speeds above 2 knots.

Eddies

Eddies, which vary in size from a few miles or more in diameter to 75 miles or more in diameter, branch from the major currents. Large eddies are common on both sides of the Gulf Stream from Cape Hatteras to the Grand Banks. How long such eddies persist and retain their characteristics near the surface is not well known, but large eddies near the Gulf Stream are known to persist longer than a month. The surface speeds of currents within these eddies, when first formed, may reach 2 knots. Smaller eddies have much less momentum and soon die down or lose their surface characteristics through wind stirring.

WIND DRIVEN CURRENTS

Wind driven currents are, as the name implies, currents that are created by the force of the wind exerting stress on the sea surface. This stress causes the surface water to move and this movement is transmitted to the underlying water to a depth that is dependent mainly on the strength and persistence of the wind. Most ocean currents are the result of winds that tend to blow in a given direction over considerable amounts of time. Likewise, local currents, those peculiar to an area, will arise when the wind blows in one direction for some time. In many cases the strength of the wind may be used as a rule of thumb for determining the speed of the local current; the speed is figured as 2 percent of the wind’s force. Therefore, if a wind blows 3 or 4 days in a given direction at about 20 knots, it maybe expected that a local current of nearly 0.4 knot is being experienced. 

A wind-driven current does not flow in exactly the same direction as the wind, but is deflected by Earth’s rotation. The deflecting force (Coriolis force) is greater at high latitudes and more effective in deep water. It is to the right of the wind direction in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere. At latitudes between 10N and 10S the current usually sets downwind. In general the angular difference in direction between the wind and the surface current varies from about 10 degrees in shallow coastal areas to as much as 45 degrees in some open ocean areas. Each layer of moving water sets the layer below in motion. And the layer below is then deflected by the Coriolis effect, causing the below layer to move to the right of the overlying layer. Deeper layers move more slowly because energy is lost in each transfer between layers. We can plot movements of each layer using arrows whose length represents the speed of movement and whose direction corresponds to the direction of the layer’s movements. The idealized pattern for a surface current set in motion by the wind in the Northern Hemisphere is called the EKMAN SPIRAL. Each layer is deflected to the right of the overlying layer, so the direction of water movement shifts with increasing depth. The angle increases with the depth of the current, and at certain depths the current may flow in the opposite direction to that of the surface. Some major wind-driven currents are the West Wind Drift in the Antarctic, the North and South Equatorial Currents that lie in the trade wind belts of the ocean, and the seasonal monsoon currents of the Western Pacific.

Chapters 6 and 7 of Oceanography, Sixth Edition, by M. Grant Gross, contain additional information on the subjects of waves, tides, coasts, and the coastal oceans.

COASTAL AND TIDAL CURRENTS

Coastal currents are caused mainly by river discharge, tide, and wind. However, they may in part be produced by the circulation in the open ocean areas. Because of tides or local topography, coastal currents are generally irregular.

Tidal currents, a factor of little importance in general deepwater circulation, are of great influence in coastal waters. The tides furnish energy through tidal currents, which keep coastal waters relatively well stirred. Tidal currents are most pronounced in the entrances to large tidal basins that have restricted openings to the sea. This fact often accounts for steerage problems experienced by vessels.

WIND DRIVEN CURRENT PREDICTION

Attempts at current prediction in the past have only been moderately successful. There has been a tendency to consider ocean currents in much the same manner as wind currents in the atmosphere, when in actuality it appears that ocean currents are affected by an even greater number of factors. It therefore requires different techniques to be used.

In order to predict current information, it must be understood that currents are typically unsteady in direction and speed.

This has been well documented in a number of studies. The reasons for this variability have been attributed to the other forces, besides wind and tides, that affect the currents.

Climatological surface charts have been constructed for nearly all the oceans of the world using data from ship’s drifts.

However, this data has been shown to have limitations and should be used as a rough estimate only.

Synoptic Analysis and Forecasting of Surface Currents, NWRF 36-0667-127, provides a composite method of arriving at current forecasts. This method uses portions of other methods that have been used. Forecasters should make themselves aware of the information contained in this publication.

COASTAL AND TIDAL CURRENT PREDICTION

Prediction of tidal currents must be based on specific information for the locality in question. Such information is contained in various forms in many navigational publications.

Tidal Current Tables, issued annually, list daily predictions of the times and strengths of flood and ebb currents and the time of intervening slacks. Due to lack of observational data, coverage is considerably more limited than for tides. The Tidal Current Tables do include supplemental tidal data that can be determined for many places in addition to those for where daily predictions are given.

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