Riferimenti storici e geografici
Istria - Arte e cultura
Scheda del Croatian National Tourist Board. [Pagina originale]
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The culture of Istria, the largest peninsula on the Adriatic coast, reflects the historical heritage of many small towns and a mixture of various cultural traditions. It shows a strong interaction of land and sea cultures, which is evidenced by the appearance of towns, by folk customs, and even by gastronomy. The more populous towns in the interior of Istria are Buzet, Pazin, Motovun, Zminj, and Buje. Located at the foot of Mount Cicarija, Buzet has existed since Roman times. In the Middle Ages, it was a fortified town, but its walls were still being built in later centuries. On the main square, there is an old parish, reconstructed in the 18th century. The whole area around the town is very picturesque, offering an abundance of good food and excellent wines. The townspeople still keep the old tradition of bugarenje (lamentations), which involves folk music and dance. In the immediate vicinity of Buzet there are several small towns with valuable historic and artistic monuments-Oprtalj, Hum, Dragus, Roz, and Sovinjak. Oprtalj has a preserved parish church with a late Gothic vault and paintings from the 15th century. In Hum there is a Romanesque church with frescoes from the 12th century and a graveyard. Dragus boasts the church of St. Rok, with frescoes by a folk painter from the 16th century.

Pazin is the biggest town in central Istria. The old part of town lies above a chasm more than a hundred meters deep, into which the river Pazincica falls. In the season of heavy rains, water in the canyon part of the chasm forms a lake up to three kilometres long. Jules Verne first mentioned this phenomenon, in the novel Mathias Sandors from 1885. The story of the novel is set in Pazin, and involves a famous cave connected with the Limski Channel by a secret underground passage. Of course, that is only true in the novel. The town was first mentioned in the 10th century, but it owes its present appearance to the 16th century, when it spread north and east. The parish church of Sv. Nikola (St. Nicholas) from the 15th century has a late Gothic presbytery with frescoes on the vault and on the walls. The citadel (Kastel) now houses the Ethnographic Museum, which has a valuable collection. Pazin has enjoyed the right to host fairs since the 16th century and this tradition is still observed today, on the first Tuesday of every month. Not far from Pazin there is Beram, where, in the cemetery church of Sveta Marija na Skrilinah (St. Mary) there is the famous fresco cycle by Vincent from Kastav, from the 15th century. Another place to visit in the vicinity of Pazin is the church of Sv. Katarina (St. Catherine) in Lindar, in which a phantasmagoric fresco "The Living Cross" was made at the beginning of the 15th century, and Sveti Petar u sumi, the site of a Benedictine and later Pauline monastery.

Motovun is one of the most picturesque Istrian towns, sitting atop a hill in the idyllic Mirna River valley. The town is surrounded by mediaeval walls, on which there is now a promenade offering unforgettable vistas. A town curiosity is a water tank extending under the entire main square, an indication of the way of life in this town in the past. Not far from the town is Motovun Forest, where one can go looking for truffles, a local gastronomic delicacy. An international film festival has been held in Motovun since recently. The town of Zminj, on the hill between Lim cove and the Rasa valley, is famous for its cultural heritage from various eras, ranging from the old Croatian archaeological findings from the 11th century to modern church architecture. The Zminj area is also famous for traditional Istrian food: manestra-a vegetable soup; supa-a piece of dry bread in red wine with a bit of oil and pepper; a sausage and cabbage dish; and the ancient wine sorts Teran and Malvazija. The end of August is the time of Bartulja, one of the oldest Istrian folk festivities dedicated to Sveti Bartul (St. Bartholomew), the patron saint of Zminj. In July the town hosts a festival of accordion players.

The town of Buje dates back to Roman times; today it is the centre of an agricultural region in viniculture. The wine roads of Bujstina, which connect local wine cellars and restaurants that offer good traditional fare, are well-known among people who appreciate good food and wine. Seven kilometres to the north is Momjan, a small town on Sveti Mauro hill, from which a beautiful view opens on almost all of Istria-one can see as far as the sea near Umag and the peaks of Ucka Mountain.

On the northwestern coast of Istria, where the forest comes closest to the sea, is Savudrija, an old fishing village. According to legend, the Venetian fleet defeated the united fleet of Friedrich Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III off the coast of Savudrija in the 12th century. A well-preserved and still operational 19th century lighthouse, at one time the tallest in the Adriatic, is located in the area. By the end of the 19th century, the tourist trade began to develop in Savudrija. The first resorts were built at that time, attracting European tourists with an exceptionally peaceful and gentle coastal landscape. Numerous local restaurants offer a special combination of continental and Mediterranean cuisine. In the nearby settlement of Zambratija, a folk festival celebrating St. Mary Magdalene is held at the end of July. A local peculiarity is the traditional method of hanging fishing boats on a wooden frame on the shore.

Down the coast to the south is the ancient town of Umag. A nearby area of hotels and apartment complexes is already several times bigger than the old town. For a decade now, Umag has been home to the Croatia Open ATP tennis tournament. Another attraction is a town-identity design project, the most extensive in recent Croatian history. There is also a well-equipped marina in town-the destination of many boaters sailing in the Adriatic.

A pleasant ride south on the coastal road is the town of Novigrad. It is located on the northern side of the Mirna river bay. The town originated in classical antiquity, and some of its lively history is suggested by the range of architectural styles characterizing its churches and other buildings. Novigrad has a long tourist tradition, which began at the end of the 19th century. Along with swimming in the traditionally clean sea, there are many interesting things to do: hunting in the Mirna river valley, canoeing on the river, or going to a jazz concert during an annual festival. Traditional folk customs are in evidence at the end of August when a three-day festival of Sv. Pelagije (St. Pelagius), the patron saint of Novigrad, is held.

Further down the coast is Porec, probably the Istrian town richest with historical monuments. The old plan of Roman streets is still preserved in the town centre. The Episcopal Complex of the Euphrasius Basilica from the 6th century, with beautiful mosaics from the period of emperor Justinian, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Porec also boasts several well-preserved Romanesque and Gothic residential buildings. The town is surrounded by beaches, and there are beaches also on the island of Sveti Nikola (St. Nicholas), located opposite the town centre. In and around Porec, pine forests extend almost to the very beaches. Tourism has a very long tradition in Porec, and the town already had a tourist guidebook in 1845. The town has a marina, so that it can be reached by sea; it is also accessible by small aircraft, via the airport in nearby Vrsar.

Not far from Porec is Rovinj, a town sitting on a well-indented stretch of coast, lined by numerous small islands. Because of the beauty of the town and its surroundings, sanatoriums and health resorts sprung up in the 19th century, before the era of modern tourism. Built on a small island, the town was mentioned already in the 7th century. Later, the island was connected to the mainland. It was once fortified with double walls that were later removed or incorporated into buildings. The cathedral of Sv. Eufemija (St. Euphemia) dominates the town with the sixty-meter bell tower on top of which is a statue of the town patroness. Particularly beautiful are the islands of Sv. Katarina (St. Catherine) and Sv. Andrija (St. Andrew), just off the coast. On Crveni otok (Red Island) there once used to be a Benedictine monastery, which was later converted to a Franciscan monastery, still later into a mansion, and then finally into a hotel. Throughout the year, the Rovinj marina attracts boaters seeking rest after a hard day of sailing.

Pula is the largest town in Istria. It developed on the location of an ancient Illyrian settlement and a Roman colony. One can sail up the town through the picturesque Pula bay, which was known as a safe shelter for ships since ancient days, and dock in a marina in the very town centre. The huge amphitheatre from the 1st/2nd century, which seated 20,000 people, is still well-preserved today. Also well-preserved are the Sergius Family Triumphal Arch and the Temple of Augustus from the 1st century. Next to the temple of Augustus, at the site of the Roman Forum was another temple, of which only a wall is preserved today, incorporated in the Town Hall from the 13th century. Outside the former town gate there was a big Roman cemetery, mentioned by Dante Alighieri in The Divine Comedy, in the 9th canto of "Hell." A walk through the centre of Pula is a walk through history. The Archaeological Museum of Istria has a good collection of exhibits depicting local history. There are numerous churches in Pula, dating from the Middle Ages and more recent times. Especially interesting is the chapel of the no-longer standing Church of Santa Marija Formosa (St. Mary of Formosa), a nice example of 6th century architecture. An altar polyptych from the end of the 14th century kept in the Franciscan church is one of the most beautiful examples of Gothic wooden sculpture in Istria. Sv. Marija Cathedral (St. Mary) was built in the 5th century. Rebuilt several times since, it incorporates elements of various styles, on the inside as well the outside: a Roman sarcophagus is used as the altar, and mediaeval architectural traits are combined with Renaissance ones. The Kastel fort dominates the town; it was built on the location of a pre-historic fort, and its present appearance dates from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Today, the Kastel fort houses the Historical Museum of Istria. The beginnings of tourism in Pula were inspired by culture and history, and the first tourists in Pula were antiquity lovers who visited the town on organized tours. Since the 1950s, Pula has hosted an annual film festival; films are shown in the Roman amphitheatre. Pula has an international airport. Near Pula, off the coast of the small town called Fazana, is Brijuni National Park. Already in classical antiquity the picturesque Brijuni Islands attracted people seeking natural beauty and tranquility, and the ruins of Roman villas speak of that attraction. In the vicinity of Pula one should mention Medulin, with its beautiful beaches, and Barban, a picturesque mediaeval town, where a chivalric tournament called Trka na prstenac (Race for the Ring) has been held in the second half of August ever since the 17th century. Going towards the Rasa canyon in the north, one gets to the small town of Rasa, the youngest settlement in Istria, built in the 1930s to house workers from the nearby coal mine. It is a fine example of modern architecture of the period. In the centre of what was once a coal-mining area is the town of Labin. Today, after the mining stopped, the mineshafts have become a tourist attraction, and Labin now provides a home for international cultural and artistic exchange under the Labin Art Express project. The town of Labin grew out of the Roman settlement called Albona. There are many beautiful mediaeval, Renaissance, and Baroque palaces and houses in Labin.



Text and Design - Copyright © 2001 Sergio Fumich
Revised - May 28th, 2001