FAQ

I heard Rhodes is back in business. What's the deal?
Rhodes chairman Joseph A. Brandstetter has stated the following plans for the recently formed Rhodes Music Corporation: (7/17/98)
· We have developed an educational system that will be available to the world via the internet, in books, CD-ROM, audio, and video tapes. Many of these products will be available in the next 30 days!
· The Rhodes Electric Piano, in its original form, with MIDI technology, a much lighter and sturdier body, yet maintaining the classic appearance of the original, will be available for sale at NAMM 2000.
· ...in the near future, we do plan to manufacture kits with all the components necessary, including instruction manuals, that will help you maintain your classic Rhodes pianos. These kits will be available in the next 18 months.
· We are in the process of developing a "Rhodes Method Over the Net" on our website. You will be able to download interactive piano lessons via the web. Check out the official Rhodes site for the most current details of the rebirth of the Rhodes piano.
 
Where can I find new tines or other parts?
Take a look at the Parts, Service & Repairs section of this site for lists of dealers and technicians in your area. BadRat recommends Major Key, based on their years of experience with the Rhodes and their great selection of parts.
 
How do I find out how old my Rhodes is?
Steve Woodyard explains:
There are 2 date codes and both are on the harp (the wood rails that have the pickups and the tone bars) The pickup rail is at the back of the harp and has the pickups mounted on it. There is some numbers at the right rear of the pickup rail. One set will have TBJ and 6 digits. This is the part number.
The other is just 4 digits. This is the date code for when the pickup rail was completed and reads as wk/year. 0575 would be the 5th week of 1975 etc. The pickup rail was usually completed between 1 to 4 months prior to the finish of the completed piano. Also (sometimes rubbed off) the finished date was stamped on the right end of the tone bar(gold colored bars) rail, near the serial plate. In the early years this was also week/year. After 1973/74 it became week/year/day of the week. 0575 would then be 5th week, 1977, 5th day of the week(Friday). For this method compare the dates on the two rails to minimize confusion.
 
The schematics from Chapter 11 are too big to print from my Web browser. How do I print them?
You can import them into a word processing application, if your word processor supports graphics. The following is an example of how to do it in Microsoft Word 97:
1. In your Web browser, view the image file as you normally would.
2. Choose Save As... and save the JPEG image to your hard drive.
3. Quit the Web browser and go to MS Word.
4. Create a new Word document.
5. Under File: Page Setup... choose Landscape.
6. Go to the Insert menu and choose Picture: From File...
7. When it gives you a dialog, pick the file you saved (fig11-?.jpg). It should then appear on the page.
8. Print the page.
MS Word will print the page at a high resolution, so you can read the numbers. When I printed it, it came out looking like the page I scanned originally.
 
What amp should I use to get that "classic sound" from my Stage 73/88?
Public opinion is that the Fender Twin Reverb is the best choice, followed by the Roland Jazz Chorus. The Fender Twin Reverb was used by Chick Corea in the 70's (a special thanks to Mike Grieves for digging up this first-hand info). In general, a tube amp will sound better than a solid-state amp, although (ironically) the Suitcase amp is and always has been a solid-state amp.
 
How do you record a Rhodes?
It's always preferable to play it through an amp you like, then mic the amp for the recording session. This captures the flavor of the amp, which is probably what you're looking for. If you'd prefer to record direct into the mixing board, a tube preamp will add more character and body to the piano's sound than a solid-state preamp. The SansAmp Bass Driver is another good solution for recording direct.
 
The black Tolex covering on my Rhodes is peeling off. How do I replace it?
Most people say: don't bother. You can always peel it off and recover it in exciting fabrics like fur, shag carpeting, or whatever else puts you in the mood to get funky. Another option is to sand the cabinet down and varnish the whole thing, to make it look like a piece of fine furniture. But if you really want black Tolex, Fender is still using it on their amps. Order some from a Fender parts dealer and get your glue gun.
 
I want to gig with my Rhodes, but it's so damn heavy. What should I do?
You can probably get away with using a hand cart to move it around by yourself, but you're better off getting your other band members to help. The Rhodes 54 is a "lightweight" option, relatively speaking, but the 54's are not as easy to find as 73's and 88's. If you can stomach a digital alternative, the Voce Electric Piano is a half-rack MIDI module that has realistic and responsive Rhodes sounds. The Rhodes MK-60 and MK-80 digital pianos (made by Roland) are also more portable, but they are not recommended due to their highly unauthentic sound.
 
How do I subscribe to the Rhodes mailing list? How do I unsubscribe?
The list can be found at ONElist. You can subscribe or unsubscribe here:
http://www.onelist.com/isregistered.cgi?listname=rhodes
For more information, see the Rhodes Info Site:
http://www.mds.mdh.se/~dal95aam/rhodes/maillist.htm
 
What is Dyno-My-Piano/Dyno-My-Rhodes? How can I get that bright Dyno sound?
Dyno-My-Piano was a company that made modifications to the Rhodes piano, most notably making the sound more bright and bell-like. The company is no longer in business, but check these pages for tips on getting that bright Dyno sound and making your own Dyno hammer tips. For more details on Dyno-My-Piano, see the Dyno Page.
 
Do the Rhodes preamp and effects work without the Suitcase amp or the Satellite speakers?
The "preamp" part of the Suitcase piano does not work without being connected to either a Suitcase amp or the Satellite speaker package, because the preamplifier is physically located in the Suitcase amp, not the piano. The "preamp" you see is really a control panel for the preamp that is part of the amplifier. Therefore, you cannot use the onboard effects without the Suitcase amp. You can still use a Rhodes with this "preamp" even if its amp is missing or presumed dead. Using the top 1/4" output jack on the front of the piano, you can connect it to a guitar or bass amplifier and it will work. You will lose the built-in effects, but you can always use the EQ and effects on your amplifier to enhance the sound.
 
Why does my Stage piano have a preamp? Is it really supposed to be a Suitcase piano?
An upgrade option was available for the Stage pianos called the Satellite Speaker package. This added a Suitcase-style "preamp" to the piano, which was used to connect the piano to a pair of outboard speakers. If you have a Stage piano with a preamp, it is missing the speakers to go with it!
 
How do I assemble the legs and pedal that came with my Stage piano?
The four legs go in the corner holes on the bottom of the piano, and the two struts attach to the back legs. The sustain pedal push rod has one end that goes in the pedal and the other end goes up in the piano (the difference should be obvious).
 
What is a good price to pay for a used Rhodes?
Typical prices in the U.S. are around $250 to $350 for a Rhodes in good condition, where all the keys work and the piano is in fair cosmetic shape. For a mint condition or rare model (like the 1969 glitter-top Rhodes, the Celeste, or the Rhodes 54), you can expect to pay as much as $500.
Things to consider:
· If it is a Stage model, does it have the legs, sustain pedal and push rod? These parts are commonly missing from "well-loved" Rhodes pianos and are hard and/or expensive to replace.
· If it is a Suitcase model, does it have the original amplifier, and does the amp still work? Does the preamp work? And most importantly, does it have the 4- or 5-pin cable that connects the piano to the amp? That strange little cable is the most important part of the deal.
· Has it been used on the road, or is it a living room piano? Pianos that have been toured tend to be in need of some loving care, and they will probably need replacement parts. Parts will be hard to find, especially if you need to replace a tine or other part unique to Rhodes pianos.
· Do any spare parts or replacement tines come with it? If so, fresh tines or other parts could really sweeten the deal.
Other things that can make a Rhodes more valuable are third-party enhancements like Dyno-My-Rhodes modifications or a Gulbransen MIDI retrofit. These rare additions can add hundreds of dollars to the piano's asking price.
 
What is the best model to look for?
The Stage 73 Mark I seems to be the most popular, particularly the models with felt-covered wooden piano hammers, which have the most "bark" to their sound. Late-model Mark I's, Mark II's, etc. have plastic piano hammers with rubber tips, making the piano's sound more mellow (this may not be desirable, depending on your musical style). The plastic-hammer pianos are also lightweight, making them somewhat easier to gig with.
Some people prefer the Suitcase models because they have their own speaker cabinet, EQ and a stereo tremolo effect. The Suitcase amp has a lot of low end, giving the piano a deep, bassy sound. The drawback to the Suitcase is that it's twice as big as the Stage, and the amp is not always in the most sound electrical condition. The preamp is also likely to go dead, making the Suitcase amp relatively useless. But the big advantage to the Suitcase is that its sustain pedal is built in and doesn't have the wacky problems associated with the Stage sustain pedal (e.g. being hard to adjust or just missing completely). Ultimately, the best model to look for is one that still works.
 
How do the Wurly and Rhodes sounds differ?
They are very close but ironically the actions are like apples and oranges. The Rhodes has a more springy feel to it, as the Wurlitzers tend to have seemingly less weight on it giving a dead blow to the board when striking the keys.
I, myself, think the Rhodes has a more round metallic sound to it. Very tubular and shiny. The Wurlitzers sound very angry most of the time. They tend it have more of a flat buzz, certainly when played aggressive. Also, the frames of Wurlys are mostly more shallow than the Rhodes giving it less sustain when holding it down baby. The Rhodes can ring on for days it seems.
Open your ears to:
Jamiroquai "Return of Space Cowboy" [Rhodes]
Beck "Where It's At" [Wurlitzer]
Herbie Hancock "Chameleon" [Rhodes]
Steely Dan "Pretzel Logic" [Wurlitzer]
 
What effects should I use with the Rhodes?
· The "Big 3" effects are wah, phase shifter and echo, heard on most classic Rhodes recordings. For the most authentic results, you will want to use analog effects. Recommended brands include the Crybaby wah, MXR Phase 90, and a tape echo unit like the Roland Space Echo.
· To reproduce the Suitcase vibrato, use a stereo panner/tremolo effect with a square wave oscillation pattern.
· A tube preamp can be used to warm up the Rhodes, giving you that 70's Steely Dan clean-tone sound.
· Keep in mind that the Rhodes is not much different from an electric guitar. Any guitar effects can also be used on a Rhodes, so long as the piano's signal goes through a preamp at the beginning of the effects chain.
 
How do I get my Stage sustain pedal to stop squeaking?
There's a wood dowel that the sustain pedal rod pushes on that in turn pushes up on the metal damper. There should be a thick round piece of felt on top of that dowel- sometimes it slips off. Also, you can remove the damper, take out the pins on either side, and lube them.
 
My Stage 73/88/54 is plugged into my amp, but it's not making any sound. What happened? Is there a bad pickup?
There are many reasons why a Stage piano will not produce sound, most of which are easily fixed. Check these things first:
· Type of amp. You need a guitar or bass amp, or some kind of amp with a built-in preamp. A regular keyboard amp will not work, and neither will some PAs.
· Interior connections. There is an RCA cable that attaches the Stage piano's output circuitry to the pickup array. Make sure that this cable has not come loose on the way to the gig. If you look inside the piano, it should be plugged into a female RCA jack on the left-hand side of the pickup rail.
If these things are correct, then the problem may be more serious. The pickup array may be damaged, or there may be a problem with the piano's internal circuitry. One thing to check is the internal RCA cable mentioned about. Try connecting an RCA-male to 1/4"-male cable to the pickup array's RCA connector, and plug it into your amp. If you get sound, the problem is somewhere in the path between the pickups and the 1/4" output jack on the front of the piano. You will need to repair the output circuitry in order to fix the problem.
If you determine that it is the pickup array itself that is not functioning correctly, your last step is to check the inter-pickup connections. There are sets of wires that daisy-chain the pickups together, and if these are damaged in the right places you could lose all sound from the pickups. Compare the wiring to the Signal Strength diagrams in Chapter 10 of the service manual, and make sure that it is wired correctly.
Note that it is highly unlikely that a single bad pickup will cause the entire piano to stop producing sound. The first Rhodes I ever played was a Stage 73 Mark I with the bottom pickup (low E) broken off, rolling around inside of it! Regardless, it played fine when I plugged it into an amp. If you believe a single pickup has gone bad, plug the piano into an amp, turn it on, then tap the pickup with a screwdriver. If you don't hear the screwdriver coming from the amp, then the pickup has gone dead and needs to be replaced.
 
I've heard that there were Leslie speakers made specifically for the Rhodes. Are they any good?
It is true, Leslie made a special model for the Rhodes. Whether it is any good seems to be a matter of personal taste. Sasze provides a description of the various models for Rhodes:
j a v e x wrote:
> Anyone else ever try a leslie simulator (or even a real leslie)?
There was a Leslie that was designed specifically for Rhodes pianos. Model 60M (main) and 60S (satellite) where designed as a pair. The main containing both amps and the space generator and the satellite being just a speaker. Model 70M/70S Leslies where the exact same thing in wooden cabinets. Here is a short paragraph.
"This model Leslie was intended primarily for Electro Pianos. It utilizes NO rotating parts, except for a special "Space Generator" whose principal is very similar to the Hammond Vibrato Scanner. The animation in this pair is in stereo and is derived from the space generator. Termed by Leslie as "Vibrato", it can be set on or off, and has controls for continuously varying the speed of the effect."
I have also heard that it was designed for the mark II stage to compete with the similar speakers Rhodes had made for stage pianos. Rhodes claimed that if you placed them on opposite sides of the stage you could get the Leslie Doppler effect. So Leslie built a pair just like it. Neither sold very well as the Fender Twin was (and still is) often used. There is a 12 inch speaker in each cabinet and the amps are solid state (no tubes). I think these speakers would be an interesting combination with the suitcase piano speakers.
 
What's the difference between a "Fender Rhodes" and a "Rhodes"?
The only difference is that a Rhodes without the Fender brand name is a newer piano, built in the late 70's or early 80's. John McLaren of Major Key explains:
The mystery behind the Fender RHODES name just becoming the Rhodes name is a result of CBS marketing to expand distribution to keyboard dealers as well as some guitar dealers. The case being that some dealers were limited with BOTH names joined, therefore if separated they would be different lines entirely, so in fact a keyboard dealership could have the Rhodes line but not necessarily the Fender line, so local music dealers would not be pitted against each other. Harold Rhodes IS the heart and soul of the sound, and it was a meaningful move as well as a marketing strategy. Rhodes should appear to stand on its own merits.
The relevance of L. Fender to the Rhodes entity should not be ignored, as he contributed greatly as to finances and engineering expertise. In all fairness Fender engineers also contributed greatly to the success of Rhodes. One of the finest I personally know is Mr. Steve Woodyard. Thank God his passion for the Rhodes sound has never diminished with time.
The original company was called "Fender and Rhodes". Around 1975 The Fender name was dropped from the title, and the rest is history.
 
What's the best way to ship a Rhodes?
The best way is to pick it up yourself, and not deal with a shipper at all. If you're buying a Rhodes somewhere that's too far to drive, your best bet is to try David Berg's suggestion:
- I have a recommendation for an excellent company to use for shipping your valuable Rhodes, Clavinet, piano or other large keyboard instrument. The company is called Keyboard Carriage and they are located in Elizabethtown, KY -270 737-5797. The advantages of knowing your instrument is being handled by professionals who are also moving $50,000 grand pianos and receiving your instrument in the same shape that it was sent, far outweigh the minor drawbacks IMHO. What are the drawbacks of using Keyboard Carriage compared to UPS? They cost more than UPS, e.g. I spent $150 to have a Clavinet sent from Boston to Indianapolis. They take longer than UPS - took two weeks for my shipping. They only make pick ups and deliveries to piano dealers.
- I just used Keyboard Carriage to ship a Clavinet for me from Boston to Indianapolis and it arrived in perfect shape. For comparison, last year I used UPS to ship a Clavinet and they almost managed to completely destroy it. To the shippers credit, he did an excellent job of packing - about 5" foam on all sides in a very heavy box. When it arrived, the box was totally ripped open on three sides - it looked like it had been dropped multiple times, the foam was hanging out and the clav case was exposed. The clav itself was inoperable when I first plugged it in - the left side was smashed in and pinched the keys on that side and the whole keyboard assembly was broken off inside so half of the hammers were misaligned with the strings. It was a real mess that took me many many hours to fix. To add insult to injury the seller/shipper (whom I thought I could trust) kept the UPS insurance settlement so he basically got paid twice and I was left with a busted clav. I finally gave up trying to contact him when his e-mail stopped working and he never answered his phone.
- So I give TWO THUMBS UP to Keyboard Carriage! It was worth it to me!
Whatever you do, DON'T USE FEDEX OR UPS!!! Too many good pianos have already died in their clumsy hands...don't let yours be another casualty!!!! For example:
- i'll go one step further and advise you to not use a shipping company at all for a rhodes. i have seen high recommendations for fedex, but many people don't know that fedex's ground component is essentially a taken over, confused, inept, and worthless 'roadway package systems' (rps). i have spoken with at least 30 different people at fedex/rps; traditionally sound fedex is not what you get with fedex ground.
- it would take me 10 pages to describe the unbelievable disaster that fedex/rps served up for me with a seemingly simple suitcase 73 shipment from montanta to dc. i'll give you the short story:
- they lost it. they attempted to return half of it (for exceeding their dimensions). they found it back in montana then sent to me again but via fedex air. it arrived destroyed 4 weeks after it was originally sent by seller. i refused it and sent it back. they lost it. i had to fight like a bear to get my refund (which they kept trying to ship to the seller, who already had my money). about 3 months later it was dumped on the seller's doorstep, and he ebay'd it for parts.
- next time i will either drive hundreds of miles myself or pay the extra money to have a piano/organ mover do it right.
- oh, the really sick part of the story is that fedex wanted to keep the shipping fee. ha! they destroyed a classic piano, then wanted to charge me $120 for the honor. what a joke. the lady said, "oh, you want the shipping charges refunded too?" duh.