The
espresso coffee
is
in danger
In
Italy it's getting harder and harder to get a decent cup of espresso coffee
The espresso
for Italians is a ritual and an irreplaceable pleasure. For a foreigner,
Italian espressos might all seem the same, but they're not. A part from
a "ristretto" (=strong and short to drink only the best part
of it), a "doppio" (= a double if lacking energy) and a "lungo"
(=long, to help digestion), which are the basic different ways to drink
it, there is a ritual and more important differences that are going
to disappear with globalization.
The Italian coffee for espresso and "Moka" machines (the caffetiere
every Italian has in the kitchen) is generally a mixture of premium
coffee beans. The most popular mixtures in Italy are: Arabica, Robusta
and Liberica. They all have different characteristics and - like wine
- have to be served at different times of the day.
A smooth breakfast "miscela" of coffee beans is the first
thing any Italian desires in the morning to get that smooth but strong
kick to wake up and start the day. The rich aroma of a breakfast mixture
fills the kitchen at home - it makes the day ahead look better. But
most Italians are so fussy that they cannot go to work without a quick
little cup at their favorite cafe in town, generally next to work or
near home. A dash of milk will knock the bitter edge off it, transforming
it into a "macchiato".
After the usual heavy lunch, almost nobody in Italy can go back to work
without a strong black shot of an Arabica coffee bean mixture. This
choice will be repeated later in the afternoon, when the boring routine
of the job has sapped one's energy..
So far this ritual was only cut short abroad, when finding a good cup
of coffee turns in a nightmare for any Italian. But now the new "McCafe"
chains and big groups (such as Nestle', Philip Morris, Procter&Gamble,
Philip Morris and Sara Lee) are distroying this pleasure in Italy also
by monopolising the coffee market. It happened first in the US, it is
happening everywhere now in Europe and the first big coffee chains are
appearing here and there in Italy.
Big "McCafes" (which Italians say sell a kind of dank dishwater
they call coffee, but that does not smell of taste of anything near
coffee) are opening in strategic points in Milan and Rome. They would
not be a menace for the small Italian cafes (that sell good quality
espresso), because it is unthinkable that Italians would like their
products, but it is a menace for the good quality coffee plants in developing
countries.
In developing countries, the leading chains are edging small family-run
coffee businesses out of the market, undercutting them and leaving them
to go hungry.
The product these big chains sell is cheaper because of its lower quality.
The huge demand for poor quality beans has completely changed the coffee
market. They are imposing their low prices on producers and the small
poor farmers in Colombia, Mexico and Brasil, cannot afford any longer
to cultivate their high quality but low yield product because it is
overpriced for the big demand.