PCD Tech Tips [PCD Tips Section]


These are some advices, tested by me and other friends, in order to improve our Clios. The aim is to give the best tips without having the necessity of trying them and so wasting money on non-working parts; with this i'm not saying that one brand is better than another, but only that these kits suit very well the Clio and so it's possible to improve the car. But remember i'm getting no responsability for them. Your suggestions will be appreciated.





 ECU [All Clio models]

If you're only interested in an Electronic Chip Unit or in further tuning parts, the best option is not to buy pre-reprogrammed ECU chips, but to tailor them on your car. Usually chips sold by post or re-sellers that do not install them for you, have only a higher rev limiter and medium maps code that will suit every Clio; but if you want to get the best code settings the only way is to adjust the values on your car's engine. For the Clio 16V the best chips will give you about 7-8 hp and the max torque will be supplied at about 800-1000 rpm before the standard 4250. Stand alone ECU modifications will give you a better responding car, with more incisive revving. Totally new ECU, in place of the original, are only needed for heavy tuning mods, such as turbo kits or Group A Rally cars.



 Shock absorbers [All Clio models]

There are so many brands of shock absorbers that claim to be the best sport kits, but for the Clio only few are proven to work, even after 100.000 km. Customizing the dampers isn't very difficult, and you can find also re-newed ones with harder settings, but usually they do not last very much. It's better to choose among the famous Koni or Bilstein kits, they're more expensive for sure, but the handling is really improved. Also the Spax kits have been reported to work fine. Among these firms there are many kits, from original type suspensions, to sport kits, to complete adjustable ones. It's up to you and what you are expecting from the car.



 Springs [All Clio models]

For the springs we can say the same about the dampers, very few firms produce top quality springs that really give better handling. The springs lower the car at front and at rear it's only necessary to re-set the torsion bars, the only thing to remember is to maintain the back 15 mm higher than the front, this considering the real lowering of the car. Many firms claim about 35 mm less and other kits also 50 mm but in reality most kits will give you about 25-30 mm; in case of further lowering it's necessary to change also the shock absorbers otherwise the handling will be poorer. My suggest is not to lower the car at front more than 30-35 mm or the typical geometry of the front axle will not be respected and so you'll have a worst roadpower. Too lowered cars are only for aestetich reasons, for open roads (not circuit) it's not good a too lowered suspension set. Eibach and H&R are one of the top product for material quality and driving sensations, some other brands after some months or kms will give different lowering at left or right.



 Exhaust system [Clio 16V]

The best way to increase the engine after the ECU reprogramming or engine's tuning is a complete exhaust system, from the manifold to the back box. Very good working 4-2-1 type manifolds are made by the italian firms SuperSprint, CSC and PoWerful and the french Devil, that also produce the rest of the exhaust system, middle and rear silencers. Other good elements are made by Remus and Magnex, but i never tested them, only heared something. The manifold will give to the 16 valver about 8-10 hp but the torque's supply will be at about 1000 rpm below, the middle and rear silencer will generate about 2-3 hp each. Changing the exhaust system (better together with a newer ECU chip) the supply of power will change, the push of the engine will be more constant from the lowest rpm, without any empty sensations, till the rev limiter. It's not a good idea to remove the catalyzator without any other modification. Without considering the legal aspects or failed car's revisions, a de-cat Clio will loose torque at low rpm and the power curve will be even higher, the result is a worst car.



 Air filter kits [All Clio models]

Some of the most popular modifications are the open air filter kits. Fitting them without any ECU reprogramming, the engine will generate less torque at an higher rpm and the power will be inferior too. So non standard chips are absolutely necessary. Opened air filters are too close to the radiator and so there's too warm air that the engine breaths, on the contrary it needs cool air. A good way to avoid this problem is to put something heat-resistant among the filter and the radiator. Induction kits will be very helpful and are finally the best solution. Opened air cone filter kits are made from K&N, J&R, Green Filters, KingDragon, Jamex, etc. and some very good induction kits are from SprintFilter and BMC. These last ones consist of a cone filter fitted in a carbon material box and plus an induction pipe. These stand alone filters will generate 5-7 hp and increase the torque too on standard engines, without any on the above negative aspects. Sport filters replacing the original one do not give better performances apart that do no tend to get dirty as paper filters and release some sporty sound.



 Tyres and alloy wheels [Clio 16V]

Considering the standard tyres measure, 185/55-15, the equivalent sizes that respect the overall rolling diameter are the:

195/50-15    195/45-16    205/45-16    205/40-16    215/40-16    205/40-17.

Apart some legal aspects that in some countries allow to fit other tyres or not, technically it's possible to choose among these with V,W and Z rated tyres. For optimal fitting the 195/50-15 will fit on 6,5 and 7Jx15 alloy wheels; the 195/45-16 and 205/40-16 on 7Jx16; the 205/45-16 and 215/45-16 on 7,5Jx16 and finally the 205/40-17 on 7Jx17. The best way to choose a measure, cost apart, is to consider if the car is lowered. On bigger sizes such as 205 and 215 wide tyres it's better to try if there's not arches rubbing or some work will be necessary, this because the nominal size can be different to the real, some 205 mm wide can be 215 mm, or even 195 mm. The ET of the alloys must be the same of Renault: 36 mm; when decreasing this value the alloys will move to the chassis body, so it's important to test before any arches problem.



 Aluminium spacers [Clio 16V and Williams]

Some people are contrary to spacers but if used with intelligence, these kits increase the track wideness and so you'll get better roadpower and roadhandling. Spacers are very important for our security so it's better to choose among tested kits and do no try to make them yourself. Generally for the Clio 16V with standard 6,5Jx15 and 7Jx15 (ET 36) wheels, it's important not to go over 19 mm measure of spacer per wheel; even if the car is lowered there's no arches rubbing problem. With bigger size alloys it's better to test them as i don't know very much. The Williams needs special spacers because of the type of fitting; in fact for this model they're not Renault universal, but the measure must be 16,5 mm.



 Brakes system [All Clio models]

In order to improve the brakes feeling a good modification is given by the brakes oil pipes, substituted by teflon and metallic ones. Of course also the oil used is very important: there are different ones, some of the bests are the Motul 4.1 and the Castrol 5.1 which is a 100% synthetic fluid and not an oil. Others brakes oils are good too and it's better to try them for different feelings they can give to the pedal.



 Renault Sport wheels by Speedline [Clio 16V and Williams]

These beautiful Renault Sport wheels made by Speedline aren't available to privates, but only to racing rally teams, that can buy more than a single set. They're available in 6,5Jx15 and 7,25Jx16 both ET 53 mm, in magnesium or light alloy only. The mounting is specific for Rally Group A Clios because of the complete different axles, so in order to use them in street Clios, you need special spacers that restore the original ET of 36 mm and that permit the centering of 0,1 mm major than the original wheels; of course you'll also need longer bolts.