PRINCETON PACKET

La Tonnara of Camogli, a look at history

(Dal giornale americano PRINCETON PACKET pubblicato a Princeton, New Jersey, USA)

By: Faith Bahadurian

04/27/2004

Each spring in Italy, fishermen repeat a centuries-old tradition by lowering large "rooms" made of nets into the ocean to trap bluefin tuna

Photo by Lilla Mariotti

A particularly large tuna caught in Italy during Camogli's "tonnara" netting.

   Each spring in Italy, fishermen repeat a centuries-old tradition by lowering large "rooms" made of nets into the ocean to trap bluefin tuna as they make their annual migration from the cold North Atlantic waters through the Straits of Gibraltar to the warmer Mediterranean. The Tonnara (tuna trap) of Camogli is one of the few remaining ones, and is the farthest north, in a small Ligurian town outside of Genoa. The decline of the tradition can be attributed to the hard work involved, the shrinking of the tuna population, and modern ocean fishing methods.
   The tonnara of Camogli is very old, first referred to in writing in the 17th century, but possibly dating from the 14th century, when it is known others existed. During the 17th century, the tonnara of Camogli was one of the most important, and the money from it paid to renew roads, extend the old pier in the harbor, and even to build a sanctuary on one of the surrounding hills to commemorate a 1518 appearance of the Holy Virgin.
   The tonnara of Camogli consists of two rooms. First the tuna (and often other fish) swim into the collection room. As they swim around the perimeter of the room, they find the entrance to the second room, sadly, if aptly, known as the "room of death." When there are fish in the room of death, the nets are raised, the fish are forced upward by the heavy netting floor, and the fish are harvested by crews working in small boats called "armchairs."
   These days two crews of six men each work in shifts throughout the summer, checking the nets. (During the winter they weave new nets.) In Sicily and Sardinia "la mattanza" (harvest) is accompanied by ancient songs and shouting, and is quite a tourist spectacle. But in Camogli, the harvest is more subdued, the men working in silence, except, as Lilla Mariotti, a Camogli resident who is working to preserve this ancient tradition, says on her Web site, "some vivid phrase if something goes wrong."

TONNO IN SALSA ALLA LIVORNESE (Tuna in Livornese sauce) translated and adapted form "Il Tonno" by Lilla Mariotti Serves 6

   6 slices of fresh tuna, about 7 oz each
   1 cup young red wine (i.e. fruity but not sweet)
   1 white onion
   3 cloves garlic
   1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
   1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped, divided use
   2 teaspoons flour
   A pinch of red pepper flakes
   Salt to taste

    Finely chop onion. Mince one clove of garlic with a quarter of the chopped parsley and set aside to add to sauce after cooking the tuna. In a large sauté pan, steep the other two cloves of garlic in warm olive oil just long enough to scent the oil. Remove the cloves, mince them, and add to the onion along with the rest of the chopped parsley. Increase heat to medium and put the tuna slices into the olive oil (in one layer), spread the onion mixture over the tuna slices, and cook for a few minutes. Slowly add the wine, and continue cooking until tuna is tender, a few minutes.
   Remove tuna to a warm serving platter, reserving the cooking liquid. To the cooking liquid, add flour, red pepper, and the garlic you chopped with the parsley. Cook until slightly thickened, pour over the tuna slices and serve. Variation: Instead of wine, cook the tuna in fresh tomato sauce.

TONNO CON SALMORIGLIO Sicilian Tuna with Salmoriglio

adapted from www.recipecottage.com and www.fish2go.com
In Sicilian, the name of the sauce is "sammurigghui." The words mean "brine." Serve with bread and Sicilian white wine.

For the salmoriglio sauce:
   ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
   ¼ cup lemon juice
   2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
   4 garlic cloves, minced
   1 teaspoon dried oregano
   Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Mix the ingredients in a small bowl until well combined, cover with plastic wrap and let stand for at least an hour before serving. If you prefer, you can cook the sauce over low heat for about 5 minutes, whisking in 2 tablespoons of hot water, then let sit until ready to serve.

    4 7- or 8-ounce tuna steaks
   Olive oil for frying or grilling

    Heat a large frying pan over moderately high temperature, or set the coals or flame under a grill. Brush the fish with the olive oil, place in the hot pan or over the hot grill, and sear each side of steaks to desired doneness.
   Stir the salmoriglio, set the fish on plates, and dress them with generous spoonfuls of salmoriglio.

GRILLED TUNA SICILIAN STYLE adapted from "Cucina del Mare" by Evan Kleiman Serves 4-6

   ½ cup white wine
   1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary, plus whole sprigs for garnish
   2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
   Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
   4 to 6 6-ounce tuna steaks
   Olive oil for grilling
   2 tablespoons unsalted butter
   6 anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped
   1 lemon, cut into wedges

    Make marinade by mixing together the wine, rosemary, garlic, and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Place the fish in one layer in a shallow dish. Pour the marinade over and set aside for at least 1 hour, turning occasionally. The fish can be refrigerated in the marinade for up to 24 hours.
   Heat a grill, stovetop griddle or broiler until very hot. Lightly rub the grill with an oil-soaked towel to prevent sticking. Transfer fish steaks to the grill or broiler, reserving marinade. Cook, basting with reserved marinade, for approximately 3 minutes per side, or until fish feels firm when pressed with your finger. Transfer fish to individual plates or serving platter. Melt the butter with the chopped anchovies and pour over. Garnish with lemon wedges and springs of rosemary.

For more information on the tonnara, visit www.mareblucamogli.com/the_tonnara_of_camogli.htm.